Private White V.C.

Private White VC is a small English clothing factory that specializes in very British clothing. In PW's case, this means British design, manufacturing and fabrics. Strangely enough, the company was only founded in 2009, and yet has managed to gain popularity in over a decade. The factory building where PW operates has been in operation in Manchester since 1853. Previous operators on the premises manufactured, among other things, raincoats and trench coats for the British military.

The company takes its name from Jack White  who was awarded the Victorian Cross (VC) for bravery during the First World War. After returning to civilian life, he worked in the same factory where PW now operates, and over time rose to become its manager and owner. Today, the small factory is owned by Jack's grandson, and its approximately one hundred workers are a true team as all manufacturing can be carried out under one roof.

Only the fabrics and trimmings come from outside, but for this the PW people don't have to travel far. In Britain alone there are dozens of weavers left, including Fox Brothers offering flannel wool, Millerain for waxed fabrics, Mallalieus for worsted wool, and a little further afield comes the renowned Ventile cotton. More on the latter later. PW specializes in outerwear.

They have sought inspiration not only from the factory archives, but also from the military history of Western countries. In Britain, known for its capricious weather, a protective overcoat is in order. Nick Ashley is the creative director of Private White, and in terms of pricing, the factory is somewhere in the middle. British manufacturing is expensive, but considering the seamstresses' salaries, the clothes are not as expensive as those from fashion houses. PW has also had a women's collection.

PW's clothes are inspired by previous decades, but their structure, decorations and fabrics are 21st century know-how. The signature features are copper zippers and snaps, whose beautiful glow is hard to resist. RiRi makes zippers that have also been invested in. The seams of the raincoats are taped on the inside so that moisture cannot seep through. Many of the coats have sheepskin as a decoration or for warmth.

Cotton flannel is a common lining material that provides warmth, and the pockets are often made of moleskin. It is both warm and durable. This way, the design is not limited to just the appearance, but also to the comfort and function of the garment. There is one problem, though. Private White's cuts are consistently slim, so slim that a man with a big belly usually cannot fit into their clothes. In addition, the sleeves are narrow even in overcoats, which usually have more room for movement.

To top it all off, Private White has a lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects, as well as a full maintenance service for their clothes that need a little rejuvenating.